A home among the trees

Trees hold a considerable amount of water, so a thick grove of trees may provide an emf reduced area comparable to that behind a waterfall ?

in the North East. South of Boston there are some areas forested with huge old trees which reduce radiation levels below -45dBm to most of the houses, yet are within an hour's drive of Boston. I am told there is a similar situation elsewhere in MA. Additionally, Basements are common in the North-east, and are by far the best way to cut down daily exposure. Nothing beats an aluminium or steel Faraday Cage for cutting the lowest frequencies, however, as these penetrate the earth itself. Prof. Trevor Marshall Oct.2017

EMF Refugee

2016: about the bed tent… frame: KURA Bed tent $30.00 Product dimensions

  Length: 63 "
  Width: 38 ¼ "
  Height: 26 ¾ "

  Length: 160 cm
  Width: 97 cm
  Height: 68 cm

At 38“ wide and 5'3” long, the bed tent provides a nicely roomy space for all but the feet which will likely extend past the end of the tent into the collapsed section of the tent tube but with plenty of space for even the tallest persons.

Earlier experiment This is what I spent (from the USA), excluding needles/thread/sewing machine… $ 30.00 US - Kids Bed Tent $ 95.20 US - Nylon mesh silver 30#, 4 square meters $ 217.50 US - Staticot, 20' length

$ 347.70 US - total

Small shielding tent could be used for visits to emf noisy environments. The experimental sleeping tent appears to have better than 30dBm shielding. Also, I tested having a small fan blowing air from outside the tent through the silver #30 and it did a good job of cooling the interior of the tent. This may be important for those living in warmer climates or needing air movement for comfort.

Sturdy frame for sleeping at home full frame

section close-up

I ended up buying 60 feet of the PVC pipe for this design (6 x 10' pieces).

Pipe lengths: 15 x 35“ PVC pipe for bottom and lengthwise supports

2 x 15"     PVC pipe for middle vertical supports
2 x 13.5"  PVC pipe for corner vertical supports
6 x   5"     PVC pipe for horizontal top supports
6 x 11"     PVC pipe for center piece on top angled sides

12 x 1 5/8” PVC pipe for “45 angle” to “tee” connectors

Slip coupling connectors: 12 x “tee” 12 x “45 angle”

5 x "cross" (for middle connectors)
4 x "90 w/ threaded side outlet"  (for the bottom corners)
4 x "male adapter" (these are used in the bottom corners)

I am pretty sure this has far more structural strength than is needed for lighter fabrics.

I can hang my LED light from top piping and it feels spacious.

The first layer is a tube from Staticot fabric. The next layer is pieces of #92 that are earmarked for making clothing soon.

I can feel the difference with the #92 added. So restful.

Actually I want to sleep all the time. Joyful Feb 2017

I have made tents from various fabrics:

  black soft & safe (not too effective, but it was the first material I had to work with)
  green staticot (effective, but perhaps not as effective at same frequencies as #78B or #92)
  silver sleeping cap fabric (#78B)
  silver knit (#92)

They all follow the same pattern of a tube with #30 mesh sewn to the end (except for the #92). Basically, I took a piece of fabric double the length of the tent folded over and made a doubled seam along the sides.

…. I do use a double sheet over the fabric since I don't want to ever need to wash the tent fabric.

Tent length is just shy of 6' long. You could use more material and longer pipes to get whatever length you need.

This PVC structure could easily support a tube of attic foil wrapped around it. If I were making it I would use the foil all the way around length of tent and on one end. You can add some small ventilation holes that will need a shielding material that allows air flow. (or use….) We have tested and found the foil offered here to be very effective for shielding: perforated attic foil

The steel mesh or the honeycomb material would be good choices. If you want to test something out first, you could start by using #30 mesh.

Or, for human comfort's sake, you could make a tube of a nice cotton fabric (non shielding) to put on the frame before adding the foil. This would protect the foil from the strain of the frame and of your weight on the floor of the tent and make for a much nicer “feel” inside.

If you use the #30 mesh, you might want to find a way to use two layers that have a little air space between them to make them more effective.

The #92 tube that I made has one side that is an extra 4 ft long to use as a flap to fully seal the entire tent. This was for testing the capacity of the #92 for shielding. Of course it is at best only 40dBm reduction in power.

The foil reflects just about all external radiation. The important focus when using the foil is to use foil tape that has a conductive adhesive.

Prof Marshall recently posted on other site:

The best is aluminum construction foil using copper tape with conductive adhesive to tie it all together. The construction problem is (mainly) how to make the doors.

#92 is the second-best shielding solution we have, at about the same performance level as yShield stainless-steel shielding mesh and a lot easier to handle.

The problem with any of these is that a half-inch-gap somewhere will let in enough signal to drop the faraday cage's efficiency to 30dB or less. Mike has been working on a magnetic-door with #92 to minimize this. Joyful has a solution too.

      Attic-foil:

wide attic foil (you don't want 'super-perf')

      Good tape:
      4" https://www.ebay.com/itm/162179656310
      2" https://www.ebay.com/itm/162179552158

Actually, the very best is copper foil or sheet, but that is a bit out of our class, I think :)

I am planning removable end panels to act as doors. No hinges. Bungee cords. Prof. Marshall 2016

I have put a short video online which I took during construction of the Faraday Cage I made here, from 1/2“ PVC tubing and attic-foil

vide- Faraday Cage construction from PVC tubing

The floor is 3-ply sheets, four of them (only one is shown), tied with plastic ties to the peripheral tubing and taped together with gaffer tape, to cover the cracks. Note the 10 foot wide roll of attic foil to the left of the cage. This was taped from 5ft wide attic foil, and rolled so it was ready to be stretched around the cage framework in one long (24ft) piece. Join is beneath the floor, with a foot of overlap, plus conductive tape. Ends made from 5ft attic foil were taped on with as much overlap as practical. I would recommend using 3mil aluminum shim for any future construction efforts. This worked well, even at AM broadcast band, but the shim would be better at the lower frequencies. The grey piping was only used because I ran out of white piping and had some grey PVC conduit lying around :)

No glue is needed at any of the joints - the structure is self-supporting. A little silicone grease in each joint helps the pipes to slip into the fittings. The structure can be easily dismantled and moved, but you will need to replace the aluminum foil, which doesn't like being bent and moved.

T Marshall Jan. 2018 says I rolled out two 23ft lengths of the 5ft atticfoil on the ground and taped them together, side by side. Use tape on each surface and overlap them about 6”. I rolled them into the roll you can see on the floor at the left of my cage frame, to make them easier to handle. Then you have a 9ft6“ by 23ft loop, which, if you calculate, is long enough to throw over the top of the cage and make a huge loop around it. Then I joined the ends underneath the floorboards (before the floor boards were put in, of course) by taping again twice, on each side of the foil. There was about 2ft of overlap, in my case. My frame is 8ft long, so there was 9ft6in - 8ft = 18inches extra width at front and back, which I wrapped around the frame and then taped the end sheets, which I had precut to 4ft width, to cover the ends of the frame.

Since I used a flap for a door at one end, I made the overlap at the door end 1ft, and that left 6” for fastening (with tape) the other (sealed) end. Then I used plastic ties to fasten the wooden frame which forms my door, with its steel plates for attracting my flap-magnets. The 1ft flape were long enough to wrap around the u-shaped door-frame.

mvanwink adds The idea Dr. Marshall is illustrating is there is one continuous foil piece in the loop, no breaks, and the loop ends are overlapped to provide best electrical connection using a large 18“ overlap, plus conducting tape to secure the two ends.

For my smaller box, I used two loops around the length, no breaks, securing the two ends. Yes, it was a really long piece. A bit of work to do it logistically and probably a bit of overkill.

TM The size of my frame is a smidgen over 4ft width, so that the 4×2 slabs of ply for teh floor would lay between the pipes without having to trim them. About 1” extra width is needed for that. Similarly, the depth was 8ft1“ to allow four floor plates to fit snugly.

The height was supposed to be 4ft too, but I couldn't get the pipe-connectors I wanted, and so the side poles are at a height of about 4ft6”. Therefore the ridge height grew to 7ft6“ from the 7ft I had planned.

You can see how my wooden door-frame at the front works in my video …the one where I close the cage and measure the signals.

For light, the professional faraday cage builders use a grounded “window” made by sandwiching a layer of #100 stainless steel mesh between two layers of clear plexiglass.

The mesh extends out past the edges of the plexiglass so that it can be attached to the foil with a conductive adhesive foil tape. Joyful, May 2017

I use 3 layers of the .0012” wire 100 mesh 316 stainless steel for the door and it holds up well. It can be sewn, use fabric glue to stabilize the edges before cutting to avoid raveling. The 50 mesh is more breathable but must be sandwiched in plexiglass to avoid thread separation and therefore performance loss. Mike May 2017

It ain't cheap. 100-mesh woven stainless high transparency-0012

For ventilation, I use a fan blowing on the tent side. It is more than adequate due to the SS door window.

timber frame clad with aluminum plates

I put aluminum foil over the seams and taped it with aluminum tape.

L.v.M.

One side is mesh.

Mesh covers when completed almost 4 sqm. More than enough air.

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Performance chart

Your cellphone will get “5 bars” (full strength signal) down to -85dBm. FM radio sensitivity is even higher. That is right at the limits which a Cornet can measure with amplifier and filters, and at which the spectrum analyzer starts to come into its own. But beware the RF Explorers radiate quite a strong signal themselves while they are measuring the spectrum. Inside a Faraday Cage you don't want to use them any more than in emergencies…

Getting the FM signal down to -100dBm (or so) will require everything about the Faraday Cage to be perfect. That is an attenuation of about 50dB from the room, or 100,000 times. A tiny crack will knock that back quite quickly to only 100-1000 times shielding (20-30dB).

The sniffer starts ticking at -47dBm on LO sensitivity and -57dBm on HI sensitivity. It is designed to tell you when you are in an unsafe place, not to determine an optimal nurturing environment.

As a point of comparison, a GPS receiver, the most sensitive receiver in current common use, receives at a signal level of about -121dBm. My target for a sleeping environment is below -90dBm, preferably below -100dBm…

there are other ways to test a Faraday Cage. You could do as I did, and switch on a Ham radio transmitter to create an extremely strong field outside the cage. I also have used a 5GHz transmitter to test Faraday Cage integrity.

The best way to ensure best performance is not to make any compromizes in construction or sealing of the cage. Failing that, it is not so easy to validate performance. One simple way is to use the Kaito radio to see if FM stations disappear, as they should, when the door is closed. The RFexplorer can also be used to look for known signals, such as nearby cellphone towers.

TM Aug. 2017

A powerful transmitter gives you -10dBm in the room, so that the Cornet can measure the -60dBm (or so) in the cage.

Cornet does not emit much RF (but see my video from my Faraday cage, Cornet EMF is measurable with special equipment) and the Kaito doesn't radiate any appreciable signal at all.

Even 30dB of shielding will make a big difference. My concern is getting the level in the cage close to baseline (thermal noise) to stabilize EHS symptoms (please don't ask me to explain this).

Rico

No, I won't ask you to explain thermal noise :)

RF Thermal Noise Tutorial

Thermal noise is present in all life - molecules too, not just electronic circuits. Research “Boltzmann” for more info. he figured it all out in the 19th Century…

(Q) “Our closet “cage” has a fan blowing air out and a vent for inflow of air. With the fan on high, it's still very warm in the cage, sometimes just too warm to be in there. The closet is in the bedroom on the upper floor. Have people found this to be a problem and what have you done to resolve the issue?”

(A) “Exhaust fan needs to be at the top, intake at the bottom. Other than that you can add a fan for intake. If that is insufficient, add another exhaust fan.” Mike

from Rico here are photos of my closet cage. I've included photos of the honeycomb on its own and attached to the foil from inside and outside the cage:

Closet photos

Room before shielding with YShield paint and AtticFoil under hardwood was as low as around -30 dBm (occasionally dipped into the -20s). After YShield paint and AtticFoil applied, decreased to about -54 dBm. This was measured with the Cornet. It can't measure below -65 dBm so used the RF Explorer in the closet.

In the shielded closed, I get in the -80s at some frequencies, just below -100 at a few other frequencies and in the -90s at most other frequencies.

Looks as though Next-Up, the excellent French EHS organization, is also focusing on the -100dBm region now.

Pieces…

DC fan

Honeycomb…

filter

Fan details…

fan detail

Connection details…

connection

In the above photos the AC adapter is set for +12V because I plan to use it to power both the lower exhaust fan and the upper intake fan.

IMPORTANT NOTE:The reason the exhaust fan needs to be the lower one is to pull out the heavier stale air (CO2) that would otherwise build up and perhaps crowd out the necessary fresh air (O2).

Rico, I see you used metal clips to hold the rubber fan mounts inside the cage. Do you plan to replace those with something else?

The advertised dimension of the honeycomb is 5.5“ x 26”. Well, I didn't want one long piece. I requested they cut it into four 5.5“ x 5.5” pieces, leaving one 5.5“ x 4” piece. They're all one inch thick - nothing changed there.

Make sense?

I wasn't planning on replacing the bulldog clips on the interior. They help hold the fan onto the honeycomb in addition to the gaffer tape on the exterior.

Mike, mvanwink5, posted the following about his new trailer shielding:

“Workmen only arrived for two days this week to install the screen, but half the screen is now up and even with half of the trailer unshielded, inside the trailer the sniffer is now silent (with an occasional burst of beeps)! Yet, more than that, I can feel it, even beyond the previous reduction from the metal roof. Further, the strong, local 1 KW AM radio station 2 miles away went from showing a green light on the Kaito radio to poorer, staticky reception without the ‘on station’ green light. It is amazing that inside the trailer I feel like I arrived in the ‘green zone’ in Cass, West Virginia (a few miles from Green Bank Radio Telescope). It is a different feel as compared to shield clothes, or being inside a yShield painted room, or inside a shielding canopy. Moreover, I have the same Green Bank experience of needing to sleep all day, only I have much work to do. So much. Based on subjective experience, I just wonder if there is more to RF than dBm and frequency.”

Prof. Marshall comments “Science has been largely ignoring the block of frequencies below microwaves, on the assumption that they have been in use for decades, and are therefore not a problem.

But you and I know that the CWS at 6MHz, 100 times less than the lowest frequency used in cellphones, has a profound affect on us. Also the 27MHz CWS.

I personally remember these “shortwave' frequencies from my childhood, and this electrosmog component has definitely changed in character since then. At the very lowest EM frequencies, 0.016MHz, huge transmitters (using 2 million watts of power) now talk with submarines underwater.

These lowest VLF frequencies have apparently caused a change in the Van Allen Belts round the earth. Here is an article talking about how Earth's EM radiation has changed Space itself…

article: VLF bubble

But the biggest contribution to this VLF region has been the Solar installations on countless human rooftops, the charger bricks we plug into the mains, and all the gadgets added to the average household. Here, whenever Liz switches on the induction oven, it radiates a huge VLF field, which I can measure with the new dongles :)

All this is why I designed the Faraday Cage with aluminum foil, to act as a shorted-turn against these frequencies below Microwave. It works. We can build even better ones. We will. As more and more of us fully recover our health.”

To keep the resistance low, and give good attenuation at low frequencies, the wonderful new conductive-adhesive copper tape is absolutely your friend. Use it to cover everything, even patches of weakness in the cage (where flexing has caused the aluminum to flake.

When installing the main 'loop' around the cage make sure you tape BOTH SIDES of the aluminum foil. If there is a foot of overlap, for example, then apply the special tape on each side individually, on top, and on bottom.

Rico Aug.2017

I believe things are better than I thought. The lowest the Cornet ED85EXS meter will read is -65 dBm, isn't it?

I took readings in the cage with the RF Explorer scanning through its entire frequency rage, everything registered in the negative high 80s and mostly 90s. The only frequency higher than that was -77 dBm at 1463 MHz.

The sniffer didn't beep at all, regardless of the setting.

Now I have to install a honeycomb for inflow of air and a honeycomb with fan for outflow. Will the holes in the honeycomb allow some RF signals to penetrate into the cage, assuming it's properly taped to the foil?

My feeling at the moment, for my level of sensitivity, is: Solar and atmospheric radiation: not much you can do about this stuff. -60db or less: not much you can do about this stuff. -50dB is start of perception for me -30dB is a real problem above that, well, the Russian safety level is around -15dBm, and their scientists know a lot more about RF-bioeffect than I do… I do know that -20dB from standing in front of the microwave has been making me perceptibly ill - slow, headachy, hard-to-pin-down-stuff. Last week I was thinking that the caffeine from too many cups of tea was causing me problems - then I realized it was standing in front of the microwave, while the water boiled, which was messing me up.

We are all on a journey of discovery right now. Some members will not be sensitive to EMF. But everybody who can sense the Capacitive Waves Systems should assume that they need to re-think their EMF environment :) Thanks to Russ, and the others, who have trodden this path before us, and I hope we can contribute back some useful ideas and understanding, as the weeks go by.

- Trevor Marshall

westbound I started the protocol at the relatively young age 32, with a freshly minted sarcoidosis diagnosis. At that time my symptoms were minor with the exception of eye inflammation that was very frequent. Often a couple times a week.

After about a year and the half on the MP, I was well enough to return to work in a very high stress, high profile profession. I was able to do this for about 5 years until around 2015, when I just crashed and hit a wall. Fatigue, joint pain, eye inflammation coming back, and just the inability to respond to the stress levels at work.

I thought i was well on my way to the other side of this disease and then something happened. Literally my response to the olmesartan was changing somehow.

So now I'm just in a holding pattern, perhaps a slower deterioration, but it hasn't been forward progress since 2015. For instance, I have erythma nodosum for the first time ever. I didn't have this much skin involvement even when I had my initial diagnosis.

I'm pretty convinced that EMF has something to do with it. I live in the downtown area of an East Coast city. I bought the Cornet, and the levels are around -30 something to -40 something in various parts of the congo, and sometimes worse than that on the street. There are cell towers on the rooftops of many buildings down here, and there was one on the roof of the office building in which i used to work, and I worked on a high floor, not too far away from the tower.

So I've put plans in motion to leave and return to a semi-rural environment in the midwest where I can focus my attention 100% on my health and emf remediation and see where that takes me.

more on fixing bed tent around here https://marshallprotocol.com/forum11/16583-7.html

dead link removed video format: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ECOkBtXBfM