Modifying Home Environment

see also

• Measuring Radio Frequency Radiation
• Measuring Devices
• Guidance for using measuring devices
• Guidance for buying measuring devices
• Protective materials

Wearable protection

is based on current research and very challenging theories to explain behavior of electrons in cell biology. Some extracts follow from Phys•Org NewsQuantum Criticality in life's proteins

The authors note that charges entering a critically conducting biomolecule will be under the joint influence of the quantum Hamiltonian and the excessive decoherence caused by the environment. Currently a huge focus in Quantum biology, this kind of conductance has been seen for example, for excitons in the light-harvesting systems.

In suggesting that biomolecules, or at least most of them, are quantum critical conductors, Kauffman and his group are claiming that their electronic properties are precisely tuned to the transition point between a metal and an insulator.

They do note that some biomolecules are actually fairly good conductors. Some of the essential steroids which are bioactive extremely low (nanomolar) concentrations, like testosterone, fall into that category.

We might call to mind.. that others have looked for similar kinds of extreme behaviours in other examples of life's proteins. Stuart Hameroff has been a long time champion of networks of polymerized tubulins in the conduction of information in the cells through as yet fully defined mechanisms. In particular, we should mention recent work on driving the rapidly polymerization of microtubules through external electromagnetic fields raises the question of what new kinds of physics may be at play here.

Quantum coherence was proposed as an intrinsic feature of life by Schrodinger in his book 'What is Life', and historically supported by Albert Szent-Gyorgyi, Herbert Frohlich and others. But artificial quantum systems are plagued by thermal and electromagnetic interactions with their environments, disrupting quantum states and causing 'decoherence'. ….However some scientists including Kaufman and Sir Roger Penrose have thought that biology could have developed mechanisms to avoid decoherence, or perhaps that life even originated because of quantum mechanisms. Biomolecules are generally 'amphipathic', with charged, water-soluble polar groups on one end, and an oil-like, non-polar group on the other. Oil and water don't mix. When amphipathic biomolecules self-assemble (e.g. in protein folding), the non-polar groups coalesce, forming intra-protein 'hydrophobic pockets', excluding water. The polar ends stick out into the charged, watery environment.

Virtually all biomolecules and organelles have non-polar interiors friendly to quantum coherence (the 'quantum underground').

Consciousness has been proposed to involve organized quantum mechanisms, and in the brain, anesthetic gas molecules selectively prevent consciousness in non-polar, hydrophobic regions of brain proteins.

Microtubules are protein lattice polymers which organize neuronal interiors and regulate synapses. Several theories including the Penrose-Hameroff 'Orch OR' theory suggest consciousness depends on microtubules acting as quantum computers whose quantum bits ('qubits') involve coherent dipole couplings among pi electron resonance clouds.

What do anesthetics do in the microtubule quantum underground? Quantum coherence in photosynthesis proteins are enabled by coherent mechanical vibrations. In microtubules, Bandyopadhyay's group has shown coherent vibrations in gigahertz (109 Hz), megahertz (106 Hz) and kilohertz (103 Hz) ranges, self-similar patterns each separated by several orders of magnitude.

Coherent vibrations enable quantum coherence in photosynthesis proteins. Their role in microtubules may be as important for cognition and consciousness. Microtubule vibrations are accordion-like compressions and relaxations, with each compression pushing the pi resonance rings slightly closer together, past the quantum critical point, beneath the van der Waals radii and enabling quantum coherence throughout large regions of the microtubule quantum underground, and overlapping van der Waals radii, causing nonlinear repulsion and return to classical states. Thus quantum and classical states alternate, in various frequency scales which interact, not unlike music.

The Capacitive Wave System (CWS) was developed by the Autoimmunity Research FoundationNon-profit foundation dedicated to exploring a pathogenesis and therapy for chronic disease. in 2014 as a research device for experimental use by members of our research site struggling with the symptoms of chronic disease.

• Capacitive wave systems appear to be modifying neurological symptoms in persons with Th1 illness.

serious trouble began around 1985, well before WIFI or cell phones. If I had to guess it was around the time of doppler radar roll out, but also when digital hand held radios began to be widely used by contractors. Further, as I understand it, the military was well aware of the trouble with microwaves, but from a national security point of view they seem to have worried that if the information got out a critical tool would be curtailed. Therefore, in my thinking the first coverup began with the military which hid the research saying RF was dangerous.

The problem is that a little bit is one thing, full on saturation is another, and that is what is happening now. Further, the problem extends to animals and insects such as bees. How big the trouble is that we are getting into goes way beyond tobacco.

Looking backwards, I would say the biggest obstacle was a missing understanding of the quantum criticality of proteins and other mega-molecules common to all life and their interaction with RF. And so the safety focus was on much higher signal levels, those based on thermal effects.

Indeed, with research warnings of safety issues being hidden by national security censorship (and later commercial interests), RF has become so integrated with modern life as to be nearly impossible to roll it back. But, clearly, now, there will have to be some serious roll back (birds, bats, bees, and whatnots can't wear hats). Until then we will have to survive.

mvanwink Aug. 2015

Cairo Feb. 2016 You may be able to contact the power company to see what is involved in getting rid of the smart meter. I opted out of the smart meter program and had them replace my communicating meter with a non-communicating meter. It took them about 5 to 6 months. In the meantime you could look at what shielding you could use between the meter and your home.

With new electronic devices, follow a couple of simple rules and educate your children how to use these fancy items:

  Consult the store personnel about the EMF from any device you plan to purchase

• Read in the store instructions for use. Especially small prints
• Explain to your child how to use the electronic item
• Make sure that the child understand the necessity to keep the device away from the brain and genitals
• Be sure that during the night electronics is away from the child (better outside the room)
• Specifically, be careful that the electronic device is not under pillow of the child

see also in school

10 Reasons Why Handheld Devices Should Be Banned for Children Under the Age of 12

1. Rapid brain growth Between 0 and 2 years, infant's brains triple in size, and continue in a state of rapid development to 21 years of age (Christakis 2011). Early brain development is determined by environmental stimuli, or lack thereof. Stimulation to a developing brain caused by overexposure to technologies (cell phones, internet, iPads, TV), has been shown to be associated with executive functioning and attention deficit, cognitive delays, impaired learning, increased impulsivity and decreased ability to self-regulate, e.g. tantrums (Small 2008, Pagini 2010).

2. Delayed Development Technology use restricts movement, which can result in delayed development. One in three children now enter school developmentally delayed, negatively impacting literacy and academic achievement (HELP EDI Maps 2013). Movement enhances attention and learning ability (Ratey 2008). Use of technology under the age of 12 years is detrimental to child development and learning (Rowan 2010).

3. Epidemic Obesity TV and video game use correlates with increased obesity (Tremblay 2005). Children who are allowed a device in their bedrooms have 30% increased incidence of obesity (Feng 2011). One in four Canadian, and one in three U.S. children are obese (Tremblay 2011). 30% of children with obesity will develop diabetes, and obese individuals are at higher risk for early stroke and heart attack, gravely shortening life expectancy (Center for Disease Control and Prevention 2010). Largely due to obesity, 21st century children may be the first generation many of whom will not outlive their parents (Professor Andrew Prentice, BBC News 2002).

4. Sleep Deprivation 60% of parents do not supervise their child's technology usage, and 75% of children are allowed technology in their bedrooms (Kaiser Foundation 2010). 75% of children aged 9 and 10 years are sleep deprived to the extent that their grades are detrimentally impacted (Boston College 2012).

5. Mental Illness Technology overuse is implicated as a causal factor in rising rates of child depression, anxiety, attachment disorder, attention deficit, autism, bipolar disorder, psychosis and problematic child behavior (Bristol University 2010, Mentzoni 2011, Shin 2011, Liberatore 2011, Robinson 2008). One in six Canadian children have a diagnosed mental illness, many of whom are on dangerous psychotropic medication (Waddell 2007).

6. Aggression Violent media content can cause child aggression (Anderson, 2007). Young children are increasingly exposed to rising incidence of physical and sexual violence in today's media. “Grand Theft Auto V” portrays explicit sex, murder, rape, torture and mutilation, as do many movies and TV shows. The U.S. has categorized media violence as a Public Health Risk due to causal impact on child aggression (Huesmann 2007). Media reports increased use of restraints and seclusion rooms with children who exhibit uncontrolled aggression.

7. Digital dementia High speed media content can contribute to attention deficit, as well as decreased concentration and memory, due to the brain pruning neuronal tracks to the frontal cortex (Christakis 2004, Small 2008). Children who can't pay attention can't learn.

8. Addictions As parents attach more and more to technology, they are detaching from their children. In the absence of parental attachment, detached children can attach to devices, which can result in addiction (Rowan 2010). One in 11 children aged 8-18 years are addicted to technology (Gentile 2009).

9. Radiation emission In May of 2011, the World Health Organization classified cell phones (and other wireless devices) as a category 2B risk (possible carcinogen) due to radiation emission (WHO 2011). James McNamee with Health Canada in October of 2011 issued a cautionary warning stating “Children are more sensitive to a variety of agents than adults as their brains and immune systems are still developing, so you can't say the risk would be equal for a small adult as for a child.” (Globe and Mail 2011). In December, 2013 Dr. Anthony Miller from the University of Toronto's School of Public Health recommend that based on new research, radio frequency exposure should be reclassified as a 2A (probable carcinogen), not a 2B (possible carcinogen). American Academy of Pediatrics requested review of EMF radiation emissions from technology devices, citing three reasons regarding impact on children (AAP 2013).

10. Unsustainable The ways in which children are raised and educated with technology are no longer sustainable (Rowan 2010). Children are our future, but there is no future for children who overuse technology. A team-based approach is necessary and urgent in order to reduce the use of technology by children. Please reference below slide shows on https://www.zonein.ca under “videos” to share with others who are concerned about technology overuse by children.

Cellphones more dangerous than cigarettes - health advisory: Neurosurgeon's 14-month study featured in The Economic Times

https://nyadagbladet.se/debatt/bacteria-mobile-phones-wifi-deadly-combination/

Prof. Marshall posted: Sun Jun 4th, 2017 However, the waves have a more profound effect on the human body than they do on a bacterial organism. All biology is in play when EM waves are present… even plants…

People with weakened immune systems are the ones that succumb to the “resistant” microbes. People on steroid immunosuppressants, hospital patients under chemotherapy, or recovering from an organ transplant. To those we can now add “people living near phone masts or with WiFi in their homes.” Which is you and me.

Prof. Marshall replies to question Tue Jul 21st, 2015 Deb, the best way to use a cell-phone is with an Airtube remote control. There are a variety available for cellphones. The airtube replaces a wire to your ear, and reduces the signal being conducted to your brain from the phone.

Below is a set available on Ebay (from China) for both iPhone and Android:

Anti Radiation Headset Earphone

Just get rid of your DECT phones. No 'ifs' or 'buts'. Get rid of your WiFi routers, and enable Aircraft mode on everything (like Kindles) that send out WiFi 'beacons' every so often. All of these sources essentially operate at full power whenever they transmit. Prof. Trevor Marshall May 2017

Edward's experience I was at a friend’s house that has WLAN and DECT phone and several people had their smartphones in operation. And suddenly I had a terrible time trying to swallow some water, it just would not go down.

Joyful confirms It appears from the reports we have gathered, that those with chronic illnesses are vulnerable to a number of distressing symptoms from high EMF environments including muscle spasms, loss of speech, cognitive disorganization, muscle weakness, migraine, headache, etc.

Prof. Marshall posted: Dec 13th, 2015 We were lucky, as our microwave blew up (smoke poured out) at about the same time I was measuring how badly it radiated EMF. So it was gone, and we had a reasonably easy decision not to replace it.

A week or two ago I came cross a review of a new toaster-oven from Panasonic, which uses Infra-Red in some clever way. Here is the article:

https://www.engadget.com/2015/11/10/the-best-toaster-oven/

We bought one, and have spent about a week with it. I was expecting something close to our old turbo-toaster-oven, but it is quite different. The really interesting thing is that when you reheat frozen foods, even frozen pizza, they come out moist, rather than dried-out. If you are interested in reheating quick frozen snacks, take a look at one of these. They get hot in use, and seem very flimsy (they only weigh 7lbs), but are Japanese design and it is really tough to fault, at the price (we bought a NB-G110PW delivered from Amazon for around $100).

I suggest you wear your NoIRsSpecial sunglasses worn by Marshall Protocol patients to block light. when looking into the oven, however, for obvious reasons.

Makes toasted cheese sandwiches in 2 minutes, heats a 9“ frozen pizza to loveliness in about 12 minutes, heats frozen vegetables in 4-5.

when one decides to have a nice cup of tea, the Japanese way is to go to your 'thermos' which keeps the water snug at 80C, and pour water into your cup over an elegant tea-holder (or maybe a teabag)

it makes excellent toast in 2 minutes, and warms up frozen rolls really nicely, but in 8 minutes or so.

TM Your best hope is to get a laptop with a physical 'Flight Mode' switch, like the Lenovo ThinkPads. Older models are perfectly adequate, not too much computer technology has advanced in the last few years. You can add an external keyboard and monitor and end up with less radiation than the average tower.

I have a quad-core CPU ThinkPad (T530 Sandy Bridge). It flies… We bought a number of T420 refurbished ThinkPads for Staff at one point. They are very quiet (EMF-quiet). Macs? I don't know about those models, I am afraid…

candide “With Mac OS X (I use 10.6 on a PowerBook) one can switch off WiFi and Bluetooth. This is likely a function of the operating system and should be possible with any Mac running OS X.”

David in UK posted: Fri Mar 18th, 2016 19:22 “Yes, that's right - WiFi and Bluetooth are switched off from the operating system. They have an icon that shows their status (e.g. switched off) and the OS retains the setting on reboot i.e. you don't have to keep switching them off, the system remembers.

As I have access to just about all the Apple range, I can comment on models.

The iMac power supply is very noisy and is situated just behind the display, as close to your head as the display. The Kaito radio picks up a lot of EMF at typical working distance. I got rid of mine as one of my first EMF-cleanup measures.

The Mac Mini is an improvement in that at least it can be kept further from the head. But the internal power supply is also quite noisy and it pushes some of the noise through the USB ports. The Kaito radio picks up a lot of noise from my external keyboard and mouse when connected to the Mac Mini by USB, even with ferrites.

My 2012 Macbook Air, on the other hand, is very quiet. Using all the various instruments I have, EMF is just about undetectable except close to the screen. And there's no hiss from the keyboard and mouse either when connected to USB. The power adapter doesn't seem to generate any significant dirty electricity.

One thing that did surprise my about the Macbook Air is that it is slightly noisier run from the battery (or with the battery charging) compared to run from the power supply with a full battery. But the levels are all very low compared to the iMac and Mac Mini.

Six square meters of the #87 fabric arrived and it looks and feels identical to the premium fabric Aaronia uses for their canopies and is about half the price Aaronia charges for just the material. In my opinion this fabric is suitable to be used to cover monitors, laptop computers and keyboards, and as I am using the canopy at the moment for that purpose, I ordered more fabric for improved device shielding.

k asks “Mike, may I ask how you are using the laptop if it is outside the workstation?”

k, I use an auxiliary keyboard outside the workstation that I type on, which is possible as the canopy mesh is transparent. The Wacom pad also is outside and since the Wacom pen is magnetic that works fine through the canopy mesh as compared to the laptop touch pad which does not work through the fabric. I use a 27” monitor for the screen, and it is also outside the canopy, so I am also looking at it through the canopy mesh.

In other words, there are no cables or electronics inside the workstation, so really I surmise that the RF level is -90 dBm, it is just that I can't measure it with my current instruments.

PS I keep wondering what life would be like with living continuously in a safe, extremely low RF zone, and therefore I am contemplating renting a house in a place like Green Bank, WV. But I am not there yet.

for shielding LED monitor screens, the 87# fabric is not as nice as the material used in the Aaronia canopies

mvanwink5 Lorenzo, I use a 'Thunderbolt' cable to dock the Apple Pro laptop to a docking module. The module is located in a shielded box, included inside the shielded box is the external hard drives, cable modem, router, internet phone appliance, and associated bricks and power warts, as well as the power line filters. The monitor is connected to the docking module as is the external keyboard and pointing device.

mvanwink5 posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2017 One change I made this week that was beneficial was that I put a quart of water in the computer box. The idea was that there was nothing to absorb RF in the closed box and if I put water in the box the water would help absorb the RF, more than the dry wood frame. That was the idea. Super news is that there was a significant improvement in how I felt when working on the computer. This of course is subjective, but the change over the week is significant, so much so that I will likely move the box inside the workstation which will help with viewing the computer screen.

I used water as an absorber inside the computer box, but here are some other products: https://hollandshielding.com/Group-25-Absorbers%20and%20ferrites

Now that the monitor has been moved further away, the AM radio does not show a green light inside the workstation canopy except for the local 1000 watt AM radio station whose antenna is only 2 miles away.

I magnify the print on the monitor screen to be able to read on screen. It is not perfect, but the results of moving the monitor is one more breakthrough for me. Funny thing is that my mood has gone from sour to happy, but other IP had jumped up to the point that I have reintroduced daily coffee. :D:P:?:X

You can leave your cellphones in Aircraft mode at home by using a VOIP wired-ethernet service with wired phone headsets, and redirecting your cell number to the VOIP number.

Or you can use a Google Voice account to a laptop or wired iPhone or Nexus. Google Voice will simultaneously call several lines (eg cell phone and VOIP phone) and select whichever answers…Prof. Trevor Marshall May 2017

Connection of an Android phone which does not have an Ethernet driver can be achieved via USB Networking using the Windows Connection Sharing facility in XP , 7 and 8.

First in Settings > Wirelss and Network > Tethering and Portable Hospot > enable USB tethering because we are going to set up a USB Reverse-Tether.

Set up windows connection sharing on your PC with IP at the default IP address (in XP it is 192.168.0.1 ) then connect the phone to the PC by opening up a terminal window and typing:

su

netcfg usb0 dhcp

nslookup google.com 8.8.8.8

The nslookup just verifies that the android OS has connected to the Internet OK. If your USB connection is not usb0 you can find out by using ifconfig. Busybox contains programs you need. I actually set up the script in “SH Script Runner” to make it easy to run :)

If at this point your apps can't get to the Internet, set up your Xposed framework to install the module “Hack Connectivity Service” to allow the USB networking to masquerade as a WiFi connection. You will want to be using AF-Wall+, or some other app-level firewall, if you want to lock your mobile apps from getting at your local network files. If you don't know what any of that means, don't worry. But if you do understand it, this is the quickest and cheapest way of connecting a rooted android phone to the Internet. It is the way I connect my phone. Added advantage is that the phone charges over the USB connection </blockquote>

Research on mobile phone irradiation

Mobile phone emissions and human brain excitability ¹⁾

EEG Changes Due to Experimentally Induced 3G Mobile Phone Radiation ²⁾

Effects of 2G and 3G mobile phones on human alpha rhythms: Resting EEG in adolescents, young adults, and the elderly

Mobile phone affects cerebral blood flow in humans ³⁾

Acute mobile phone operation affects neural function in humans ⁴⁾

The effect of mobile phone electromagnetic fields on the alpha rhythm of human electroencephalogram ⁵⁾

A meta-analysis for neurobehavioural effects due to electromagnetic field exposure emitted by GSM mobile phones ⁶⁾

… And don't forget to put the tablet into Flight Mode

ipad https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKp02y4JXVs

Android tablet (Nexus 7, first edition) using the BobJgear wired internet adapter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGuV_ssdSC8

on the Nexus 7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvu33kshlSY

(I got the Nexus 7 for $66 on YouTube, it runs my Skype, Gmail, Google Voice, etc). When I plug in the Nexus 7 (OS ver 4.1.2) the “No Internet Connection” text at the bottom of the pulldown status pane changes to “Ethernet” when I plug in the OTG+adapters+ethernet

The full list of android tablets which work is given here:

https://www.bobjgear.com/which-tablets-support-ethernet.html

and the information on how to do it is here:

https://www.bobjgear.com/usb20-to-rj45-android-ethernet-adapter.html

Prof. Marshall replies Some phones will connect. You will need to forward the normal 2G/3G phone calls to a VOIP number. Some carriers already have WiFi backup, and these are easier to convert to ethernet.

I use Google Voice, where an app running either on my Galaxy Note 1 phone or Nexus 7 Tablet receives phone calls coming into my Google Voice number. In my case, I bought a second hand Nexus 7 for about $60 just for running Skype and Hangouts video calls… It also runs an old copy of the GrooveIP app which supports the Google Voice phone connection.

In general, phones which support USB-OTG and have Android Jellybean or more recent, might work with ethernet. You will need to Google each specific model to see if others have found them compatible.

There is an Xposed App, and iOS apps, to fake a WiFi connection if software gets upset:

https://repo.xposed.info/module/com.lemonsqueeze.fakewificonnection

Rooted phones work with Reverse Tethering. Info here:

https://www.xda-developers.com/usb-reverse-tethering-guide-no-software-required/

TM Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2015 There is a new video out showing how to connect an iPhone or iPad to wired Ethernet rather than WiFi:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ndUO_p_9oI

..Trevor..

ps: There is a list of similarly compatible Android tablets here: https://www.bobjgear.com/which-tablets-support-ethernet.html

I actually like this video for it's simplicity in demonstrating the above setup:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmEOcYfLrks

Josh (Australia) Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2015

Prof Trevor Marshall wrote: “Wow, that's a lot of current. My android-compatible dongle in the Nexus 7 only draws 35ma, which is probably why the hub is only required for the Apple devices.” To be precise, that's how much current it claims to need. It may well draw considerably less in reality. But the host has no way of knowing that, so it can only go “Sorry, can't use this device” if the device claims to need more power than can be provided.

Joyful wrote: “Wow. And it doesn't even charge the phone while connected in this configuration.” Power can only flow in one direction with USB unfortunately, from the host to the attached device(s).

“Internet browser Safari works. Email works. Text messaging does not work on iPhone, but does work on iPad. Can't update iPhone apps or backup iPhone without a WiFi connection (and must be plugged into power). stupid” Interesting, I find that iMessage works. SMS does not of course. App Store also seems to work OK including updates. It may tell you that you need to turn on mobile data, but that isn't true (much like the “Cannot use device” alert when you connect the ethernet adaptor.)

Joyful Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2015 I'm puzzling over the best way to still be able to text/talk when on the wired connection described .

iPhone or iPad to → Apple.camera.lightning.to.USB.flat.connector →USB.box.shaped.connector →Amazon.Basics.powered.USB.hub →Apple.USB.flat.connector.to.Ethernet →Home.Ethernet.to.Internet.router

I'm looking at applications to allow text and talk via the wired connection.

Anyone tried the application “Signal”? (by Open Whisper Systems)

It's a private messaging system via either Android or iOS or desktop applications.

See this article for a little more about it:

 https://ssd.eff.org/en/module/how-use-signal-ios

The main hurdle to overcome is getting all my important contacts onboard with using it instead of the regular SMS on their phone when contacting me.

Ron Replied : Fri Dec 18th, 2015 The information on that link seems outdated. We tried Signal on our son's iPhone 4 but it required iOS 8 or later. Otherwise Signal seems the best with respect to security and privacy.

Have you looked at Telegram? It offers several desktop clients which seems a great advantage.

Joyful Posted: Aug 2nd, 2016

I'm inviting our members to join the conversation on my new topic (on our SchwannSongs.org site) about BUILDING A WIRED ETHERNET TO IPAD/IPHONE BOX .

I'm looking for feedback on parts to use, design of box, etc.

If you need help getting on the other site, contact our Admin Staff

Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2017

The new Apple adapter works with this inexpensive Cable Matters adapter!

$9.99 US Cable Matters 202023 USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Network Adapter (Black) Link: https://a.co/bGWgBPr

$38.00 US Apple MK0W2AM/A Lightning To USB Camera Adapter Link: https://a.co/dpUBPeM

The important point is that you DON'T have to have a lightning power adapter plugged in for the Ethernet to work. This means you can use a light weight 20' Ethernet cable and have a lot of freedom of movement with this setup.

$10.47 US Monoprice SlimRun Cat6 UTP Ethernet Patch Cable, 20ft Link: https://a.co/7A0PW3f

I think this is better than using the Apple USB-to-Ethernet you WILL have to keep a lightning charging cable plugged in. And the Cable Matters adapter is $19 lower in price.

$29.00 US (for comparision, not the recommended adapter) Apple USB Ethernet Adapter (MC704LL/A) Link: https://a.co/7kI5PcI

Prof. Marshall Tue May 2nd, 2017 here is a 'new' method ('new' to me, anyway) to connect iPhone and iPad to wired ethernet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBKs2tPggVI

high-performance router: RT-N16 Wireless-N 300 Fast Gigabit Ethernet

economical: 3-In-1 Wireless Router RT-N12

the Asus RT-N12 N300 Black Diamond: RT-N12 N300 You can unscrew the antennas very easily.

Unfortunately I seem to have bungled the setup (of the regular firmware, I haven't gotten to tomato yet) of mine. When I get the time, I will reset it and try again with my attenuators.

Thanks - looks like there is just one version with the non-removable antennae. It's not a problem for me at the moment but worth other members knowing. The models to be careful of have an E at the end of the number - RT-N12E.

For other members looking to buy one of these routers:

The Asus N300 RT-N12 D1 has detachable antennae. RT-N12 D1

The Asus N300 RT-N12 B1 has detachable antennae. RT-N12 B1

The Asus N300 RT-N12E has fixed antennae. RT-N12E

The Asus N300 RT-N12 RT-N12 is a different model and has detachable antennae, but no on/off switch, and a much more fiddly setup.

learn how to use your supplier's website to disable wifi

this video demonstrates measuring the intensity of radiation from the operator's modem and how to disable the wifi streaming from the operator's supplier

Dangers of WiFi - How To Remediate Modem Radiation

From youtube videos the Tomato and dd-wrt firmwares allow one to go as low as 1mW (I've seen defaults of 28mW and 70mW). So that would improve the situation by somewhere between 10 and 20 dBm.

You can fit attenuators in series with the antennas, it depends on the fittings. Do the antennas on their router have an SMA plug like the ED85EXS - be careful, as there are “reverse polarity SMA” in which the male has a pin, opposite to what is on your ED85EXS, which is a proper SMA. You can buy proper SMA attenuators, and indeed, adaptors between proper SMA and reverse polarity sockets on Ebay.

These 30dB attenuators would do a decent job: Stainless steel Coaxial Attenuator DC-6GHz 30dB

You can cascade two to get 60dB, although there will be leakage from the router electronics which would affect the accuracy at such high attenuations.

Routers typically will not blow up if you remove the antennas. But there is always the possibility you will hit a bad design…

This is a high-performance router: RT-N16 Wireless-N 300 Fast Gigabit Ethernet

With the antennae screwed off, and set to 1mW power (1%) with TomatoUSB firmware it still radiates a good signal about 10 feet. But the signal is weak enough to not do damage until you get within 2-3 ft or so.

This router is much cheaper: 3-In-1 Wireless Router RT-N12

and here are instructions on how to Tomato it: Installing on Asus Routers

or: how to Flash TomatoUSB on Asus RT-N12 B1/C1 Wireless N Router

During the few moments the laptop is in startup, the RF hits the roof.

The way to connect computers with minimal EMF generation is by using networking cable, “Shielded Cat-5E or Cat-6” wire is preferred, to switches, routers or hubs with metal sockets capable of working with the shielded cables. TM Oct 10th, 2014

Cat5e Shielded Network Cable, 30 Meters

would be effective, and among the least expensive options from Amazon UK. You can get better double-shielded cables, but IMO, they don't offer measurable improvement in actual use.

These are the switches I use when I want a “double-adapter” at one or other end of the cable. Actually, it is a quintuple-adapter, but why split hairs :) Notice the metal contact strip around the sockets to mate with the metal shielding clip on the cable.

5-Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Switch

Prof. Trevor Marshall

Use ferrite cores on Ethernet and USB cables. Anything linking noisy equipment. They isolate the high frequency components so they don't travel along the cable.

USB dongles can sometimes be quite noisy.

Along with enough Stetzerizers, and the use of a GS meter to identify noisy appliances, power systems can be made quite clean this way. Prof Trevor Marshall 2016

Running a wire (a USB cord, for example) through a ferrite 3 or 4 times increases its impedance at lower RF frequencies (say 1-10MHz) by 10 times. But the ferrite has little effect by the time we hit the microwave frequencies.

1. At low frequencies - discard noisy equipment and power supplies

2. Use stetzerisers for 2KHz to 100KHz noise

3. Use ferrite beads for 1MHz to 100MHz (where many LED lamps radiate)

4. Use shielding against microwaves. Prof Trevor Marshall 2016

a link to a pdf on how to best eliminate rf interference with ferrite chokes. There are some nice graphs.

https://audiosystemsgroup.com/SAC0305Ferrites.pdf lorenzo 2016

A good bead (but expensive) is made by TDK (Japan) part# ZCAT2035-0930

One of the cheapest places to buy the Chinese version of these beads is on Amazon: Ferrite Ring Core Black for 9mm Diameter Cable Get at least 20, they start disappearing rather quickly as you track down the EMF offenders…

Don't bother with the smaller diameter beads, if your cable is thin (like some USB cables), then put it through the bead twice (two turn coil).

If you put them on power cables and cords right next to the noisy adapter they will absorb a lot of the higher frequency component of the EMF. But they will not make a bad power adapter good, as they have little effect below 10MHz (or so). See data sheet performance curves on page 7 of this: ZCAT-A type ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS

You should also put them near the end connectors of video cables (especially HDMI) and USB cables.

TM Sep 24th, 2014

TM “Our home has a smart meter affixed to the outside, and the strip of wall 4 ft wide behind it is painted with yShield. The rest of the wall is stucco, with a chicken-wire mesh insert. Meters are directional, beaming 10dB more out the front than its rear.

yShield is applied to the inside of those other walls where RF is coming in. Windows are metalized. The bedroom, 60ft distant at the far corner of the house, sees a -75dBm backround noise, and no significant peaks from the neighbors' DECT phones, or the smart meters (nothing going to a problematic amplitude above -60dBm). The rest of the house is average -65dBm, and smartmeter noise is not a problem there, either. The problems come from the 4G transmitter a mile and a half away in the Los Robles Hospital carpark, but line-of-sight from us, hill-to-hill, and from the neighbors DECT phones and 4G pico-cells. You just can't generalize when talking about Microwave RF sources, unfortunately.”

“we have a concrete slab single-story detached house. The slab does a great job, without needing any 'help'… But certainly we have used the 8mil aluminum shim in our roof, and it worked OK there (with 2ft wide strips overlapped about 3 inches)

Laura 1848 Are there any results of experiments with sleeping bags?

Has anyone experimented with using the mesh as drapery like mosquito netting?

I have a four-poster bed, and could conceivably drape mesh fabric around it, perhaps with a layer under the mattress, to make an old-fashioned mosquito-net-type thing.

… How about with just a plain top “sheet” of the fabric as a layer on the bed?

Joyful The tent made of Staticot is as good as one made from Soft & Safe or even made all of the #30. The reasons for going to Staticot are durability and cost of materials.

The design and construction is discussed starting here:

   https://marshallprotocol.com/view_topic.php?id=16583&forum_id=11&jump_to=308591#p308591

Photos: Shielding Tent Photos (These are of the Soft & Safe prototype, but design is same.)

For the Do-It-Yourself types ready to get started here is my recipe… Here is what you will need for each tent:

  Kids bed tent frame
  Mesh #30
  Staticot fabric
  Sewing Machine
  Sewing machine needles
  Ordinary sewing thread

Each is discussed below.

Kids Bed Tent The frame is discussed earlier in this topic and can be ordered online for $30 at IKEA's site. It just fits inside the width of the sleeping tube and is strong enough for this design. The interior width is very roomy.

Mesh #30 The entrance to the tent is made from Mesh #30 for two reasons. To allow for an effortless seal of the entrance once inside and to make it possible to have air flow into the tent by using a fan outside the tent that moves air through the Mesh #30.

You will need to order at least 3' length of this fabric discussed here: Silver #30 Mesh Fabric. Typically, it will arrive in about 2-3 weeks.

The fabric comes by the square meter. The width is about 5' wide and this this is nearly the same width as the Staticot fabric which makes the construction work together well.

You only will want 2 pieces of 18“ x 5' for the sleeping tent, but I recommend you order 3 or more square meters as it can be used for scarves around the head or be constructed into mesh hoods to use when you aren't sleeping. Ordering more also means you can make a longer flap on one side of the tent tube to make a larger flap opening.

Staticot The body of the tent made from Staticot is same design as the first one made from the more expensive Soft&Safe material. It was a little harder to sew through as the fabric is more like denim. This is the only down side of the Staticot, but it could be easier to work with if it had been washed a couple times before sewing. I did not do this.

You will need to order at least 15' or 17' length of Staticot from LessEMF.com for the body of tent. LessEMF is located in New York, USA. Products typically arrive 3-6 days after ordering for US customers. (Shipping can add up so order enough the first time to save on shipping.)

Sewing I used a beginner's Simple Singer 2263 which I found at my local Walmart for $89. It is totally adequate for this work but I recommend you find a small local shop to have a “tune-up” on your machine before starting. Larger shops can charge $100 or more for a tune-up. I found a young man in business for himself (via a local sewing school) that charges $40 and does a great job.

For this sleeping tent you are only sewing straight lines. And you don't have to work fast or get everything just right. Be brave, gather your sense of adventure and think about giving this a try (see: Tips and Tricks for Sewing with Denim).

When you are picking out thread and needles, I recommend you read the manual for your sewing machine for tips. There really is helpful information in the manual. :)

Threads used for denim are a little heavier. Here is an example of the kind thread recommended: COATS & CLARK Dual Duty Plus Denim Thread, 125-Yard, Denim Blue. Link: https://amzn.com/B001GM1RBM

My Singer manual recommends changing the needle every other garment or so. For this project, you might want a new needle for each tent. I used a size 80/14 needle but it wasn't really working well. Size 100/16 is recommended for denim. (You could probably even use a heavy duty size 110/18). The manual recommended to only use Singer brand needles on my Singer machine.

To prepare the seam between the Staticot and the Mesh #30, I recommend folding and ironing the edge of the Staticot twice to make a clean folded edge you can tuck the mesh into aftewards.

Warning: DON'T IRON THE MESH. It is the same quality as nylon stockings and will melt onto your iron in a sticky plastic mess.

Marysue has this tent. She is using it without the tent part.

It is laid on her bed like a sleeping bag and she folds the #30 mesh over her face to make a completely enclosed shielded space without feeling too closed in.

She lives out in the country and they have turned all their wireless devices off at night for a while now, but she is really noticing how it is helping her to awake feeling rested. Today she told me that she can use it for a quick nap to recover from anything that comes up during that day.

wirion the future is plastic! As sleep protection idea I would like to make a “coffin” out of PVC piping, 2m x 1m x 0.5m, putting a fabric sleeve around it.

There are different sizes of PVC piping, and there are two compatible systems. The international or European DN system (diametre nominal) with DN32, DN40, etc. meaning 32mm, 40mm inner diameter and the United States NPS, with the correspondance here: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/nps-nominal-pipe-sizes-d_45.html

I think the US sizes are nominally in inches, quarter inches etc. but in reality they're the same as in the DN system, so they're usually a little different from what's nominally stated, e.g. 1 inch could be e.g. 0.98 inch or so.

There's also something called schedule 40, schedule 80 and schedule 120. Those are about the outer diameter, the pipes with thicker outer diameter are for high pressure fluid transfer. As structural elements for small projects only schedule 40 makes sense.

The cool thing about PVC piping as structural elements is that you have lots of different connectors/fittings (elbow, tee, 3-branch, 4-branch) as shown here: https://formufit.com/collections/furniture-grade-pvc-fittings as well as accessories. That site, FormuFit is really well made, with sketchup models and construction ideas.

Joyful Important fabrication tips:

  Pipes are dirty and should be wiped with a wet rag before assembling.
  Connectors can have burrs that could snag fabric. Take some sandpaper to them.
  Once pipes are assembled, you may not be able to get them back apart. A couple pair of vice grips may come in handy for disassembly. An alternative might be to sand ends of pipes before assembly to keep them from having such a strong grip.
  For placing the "tee" couplings close to the "45" couplings, you may have to really push hard on a sturdy surface to get it fully seated.</blockquote>
  
  I ended up buying 60 feet of the PVC pipe for my design (6 x 10' pieces).

Pipe lengths: 15 x 35” PVC pipe for bottom and lengthwise supports

2 x 15"     PVC pipe for middle vertical supports
2 x 13.5"  PVC pipe for corner vertical supports
6 x   5"     PVC pipe for horizontal top supports
6 x 11"     PVC pipe for center piece on top angled sides

12 x 1 5/8“ PVC pipe for “45 angle” to “tee” connectors

Slip coupling connectors: 12 x “tee” 12 x “45 angle”

5 x "cross" (for middle connectors)
4 x "90 w/ threaded side outlet"  (for the bottom corners)
4 x "male adapter" (these are used in the bottom corners)

I am pretty sure this has far more structural strength than is needed for lighter fabrics.

bunk tents… but the price seems a bit high on this site: Privacy Pop Bed Tent Link: https://amzn.com/B006XBJ3UI

Actually, doing a search, there are a number of self-supporting frames…

Picnic Time Manta Portable Pop-Up Sun/Wind Shelter Link: https://amzn.com/B0071IE8BQ

Joyful CC

Prof. Marshall responds I guess that Bunk tents wouldn't look so strange with mesh covering… That's a lot of Silver30# fabric, though, even at the 100yd roll price… (about half the Aliexpress price).

Interesting to read the user comments about being great for autistic kids…

And then there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Privacy-Pop-Bug-Tent/dp/B00KJ7APCM

and this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003907Z4M

and this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BWF9WI

Here is the folding procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLyT37klGC4

Nyima Or this, as a modification to the bloc-bag:

https://www.amazon.com/Atwater-Carey-Mosquito-Net-Insect/dp/B00JK8GP4S/ref=pd_sim_468_2/191-7912458-4858139?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Q29DSCMYQHWZWMDKY9Y

Also, I have decided to add one more 50 dB layer to the tent because I am still receiving the AM radio station and feel that the extra layer will finally kill the reception. My goal is zero detectable RF signals for the ‘recovery tent’ and to achieve that, 200 dB of shielding is needed. Absurd, I know, but it is what it is. I make no defense, claims, or recommendations to anyone else on this subject, but so far the stepwise addition of shielding has led to stepwise significant benefit in both function and reduced recovery time. I am still amazed. And at week’s end my mood is elevated, I’m cheerful, and mind is clear.

mvanwink5 posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2015 So, nothing has changed in that regard and therefore canopies are what works for me and it looks like unless the RF is especially high such as on a trip, garments don’t work. I don’t have a handy explanation as to why canopy shielding (for me) improves symptoms and garments increase symptoms, but I don’t buy the notion that the symptom escalation resulting from shielding garments is necessarily beneficial immune pathology. Still, I have garments being made from 87# fabric and will hold some reservation until they arrive, and then there is the last resort which is garments made from Soft-n-Safe fabric. Hope springs eternal…

AND Oct 19th, 2015

At this point, my belief it that zero RF is needed for sleep recovery based on experience with the recovery tent, and shielding garments are needed when outside shielded zones (minimal torso and pants plus whatever I can get away with for the head). I realize that I have no evidence to backup my belief, however, an area of persistent squamous cells seems to wax and wane with use of the 200 dB shielded tent (four 50 dB nested canopies), at least that is my perception. Also, muscle knots seem to recover only when I spend 2 hours inside the recovery tent but not when inside the workstation with 100 dB of shielding (two 50 dB nested canopies). Again, this is just my perception

Prof. Marshall comments My guess is that at 10GHz and above the mesh fabrics are streets ahead of the bamboo fabrics. I need to figure out how to test at these frequencies

mvanwink5 Adding the jugs of water to the computer shield box was the missing piece of the shielding puzzle. Something has to be inside the shield box to absorb what the monitor and computer transmits or the shielding is significantly less effective. A breakthrough for me.

I am starting to feel that if I can keep up this strategy of olmesartanMedication taken regularly by patients on the Marshall Protocol for its ability to activate the Vitamin D Receptor. Also known by the trade name Benicar. and shielding that there is real possibility that I will fully recover… even without moving to a low RF location like Green Bank, WV (which is not that low, still need shielding there).

Nyima However, of all the shielding I have done, I have found a bed canopy and floor mat to be the most effective (shielding at night is supposed to be more important for healing).

I made my own shielding canopy from the 30# shielding netting and bought one of these floor mats:

https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/abschirmungen/abschirmbaldachin/abschirmmatte-doppelbett

Aaronia also do a bed canopy:

https://www.aaronia-shop.com/products/abschirmungen/abschirmbaldachin/abschirmkammer

These are pretty expensive products but you could either use roofing foil in place of the mat (ask the forum which is best) or have your own canopy made from 30# fabric (or do both).

Nyima Apr 13th, 2016 Hi Karen the Aaronia canopies are strung across the room on taught wires so you can decide what height you put the wires.

If you have them lower than the full height of the canopy, you will have some of the netting gathering on the mat (like an over-long curtain). This isn't such a bad thing, because it might help with the 'seal' between the canopy and the mat.

The only other consideration you have is head-height - do you want to be able to stand up inside the canopy? Mine is not full-height as it would block too much light from my window, so I have mine set so that I can sit up and read comfortably in bed. I pull the canopy back to make the bed.

Prof. Marshall replied to bookdad I find the 4ft x 8ft x 6ft6” Faraday cage is actually very practical for sleeping, and provides complete isolation as you don't need any powered devices inside for sleeping. Did you see the quick video I linked from the faraday cage topic? I am working on a more complete description, but the quick video does explain how I did the door (I think it does, anyway).

Ron posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2015For years we have been sleeping in a very EMF noisy environment. At our bedside we had a classic DECT phone, two bulky 'Antifoni' IKEA lamps on a dimmer and a 230V clockradio. A couple of years ago I already replaced the phone with a new DECT ECO+ model. Now I took it a few steps further and also replaced the bedside lamps and the clock radio with models that use rechargeable batteries. I put them on a timer so they get only charged during the day. The double pole timer switch makes sure that EMF is totally eliminated during the night.

Here's my shopping list.

  ECO-mode plus DECT FRITZ!Fon M2
  Two rechargeable USB touch sensor lights
  DAB+ clock radio with built-in Li-Ion battery
  Powerful USB desktop charger
  Double pole timer switch

It all works like a charm. The DT-1130 EMF detector stays completely quiet when the timer switch is off. :)

And the 3 Amps charger charges both lamps and the radio. DAB+ quality is really nice too. Most of the cell towers broadcast these digital signals nowadays and we're in between two towers so why not use them.

Before shielding, the signal from the surrounding mobile towers peaked at -45dBm (on a good day) to -40dBm (on a bad day). A good first target for a significantly improved level would seem to be -65dBm, meaning I needed to see an improvement of 20 to 25dB. Reading other threads of people who have shielded rooms, I could see that this was possible but would not be easy. My choice of materials was:

Walls and Ceiling - Yshield paint

Windows - I decided to use Gila Platinum Window Film as a first approach. This has been assessed to only give around 20dB or so reduction, but it’s cheap, easily and quickly available, doesn’t take long to apply, is easy to remove, and does not preclude other approaches, such as a silver mesh covering. My guess was that the Gila probably wouldn’t get me to my target, but I was curious to give it a try. I did however expect to add silver mesh at some later stage.

Floor - I needed to take up the laminate floor to shield underneath it, so unlike the windows, this was a one-off operation that I had to get right first time. I decided to go with 120cm roofing foil, overlapped. It took a few attempts and samples before I identified a genuine aluminium product available in the UK.

Cupboards - Dr Marshall’s advice was to paint the backs of the cupboards with Yshield, and paint a foot or so on both sides of any surface that joined the wall or ceiling to stop leakage through these gaps. The floor inside the cupboard was to be treated with foil as the rest of the floor. The ceiling inside the cupboard was to be Yshield painted.

the following were important to the success of the project:

1. Pay attention to the details and sweat the small stuff! Waves get through small gaps. One mistake could compromise the entire project. 2. Watch out for the seams, joins and corners. These are the weakest points in any faraday cage, which is what I am trying to make. 3. Try to join everything up so that conductive surfaces are as large as possible.

The Foil I used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CP32H1K (And do I like it? I have another 20 metres arriving tomorrow)

Gila Platinum Window Film: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281392704893

Y shield HS54 general purpose shielding paint: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electrosmog-shielding-paint-HSF54-liter/dp/B017Y7515A/

Scotch Aluminium tape: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QRZAI2W 6 door - painted

door knobs, light switches in walls, plugs in walls were already metal, so I only needed to loosen them and make sure the Yshield went underneath them.

ceiling lights - took the fitting off and painted underneath it

door gaps - not yet entirely finished this!

vents - still working this out

It's now clear that I will need to shield the windows with silver mesh too.

Preparation The surface you are painting onto must not be porous otherwise the shielding will be compromised. This is unlikely to be a problem over existing paint and wallpaper, but would matter over new plaster or plasterboard. Yshield recommend you test a small area. If you get a silvery/shiny rather than a matt black finish, the surface is too porous and will need priming/painting/sealing.

It also doesn’t make sense to put Yshield over paint that is flaking or surfaces with cracks. I had both of these issues with my bedroom ceiling, but coincidentally had just fixed exactly the same issues in another room. For fixing the slightly flakey/porous /chalkysurface, I used a specialist paint, Zinsser Peel Stop - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/primer-sealers/peel-stop-clear-binding-primer (My experience with all Zinsser products has been great. they aren’t cheap but they do work). Once that was on, I used a specialist ceiling paint to deal with the cracks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polycell-CFCSM25L-Crack-Free-Ceilings-Smooth/dp/B001GU2GA0 I had already used this successfully in the other room. It’s water-based and matt, but thick and sticky and covers up hairline cracks really well. I dealt with one bigger crack with acrylic filler. I also filled any cracks in the join between wall and ceiling with acrylic filler, which Yshield seems to cover well over.

Mixing and the fibre additive

Yshield depends on carbon particles for its effectiveness, but if the tub stands still for any time, the carbon concentrates in the bottom, so mixing is very important. I wouldn’t want to do it by hand, and I used a thing like this, which fits in my Bosch cordless drill/driver: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868687-Mixing-Paddle-Plated/dp/B000LFZ02W

A lot of mixing is also needed to get the fibre additive evenly distributed within the paint. I used a whole jar of the fibre additive for each 5 litres. It’s black, sticky and fibrous and sits in clumps in the paint unless you mix it in very well. Again, I wouldn’t want to do it by hand.

The fibre additive is recommended by Yshield for surfaces that are cracked or imperfect, but I think I would use it on most surfaces. My reasoning for having it was concern about the joint between the ceiling and the wall. The idea is that it might help by adding thin carbon fibres across the seam. It certainly seemed to help the paint stick in the joints.

Cleanup When Yshield say black, they really mean black (if it was hexadecimal, it would be #000000). So although brushes and rollers wash out with water, it is messy stuff to cleanup, and I can’t imagine using the brushes, rollers and tray for any other kind of paint once I’ve finished.

Covering it I haven’t yet covered mine, but only certain types of paint can go over the top of it, so I’ll be doing some investigation and testing and will report back. But the finish is very soft and marks very easily, so needs covering up otherwise is likely to become damaged.

My plan with the cupboards was to paint the back (wall) inside with Yshield, and also about a foot along anywhere the frame of shelves touched the wall or ceiling. My understanding is that this creates a waveguide within which the waves are attenuated. I’ll deal with the backs in a later post. Here I’ll just outline what I ended up doing with the frame.

Once I’d painted a foot from every wall, ceiling or floor join, I’d covered more than half of the entire frame. And some of the cupboard openings are only a few inches from the ceiling or floor, meaning I’d end up painting the inside of the frame too.

So to simplify things, I just painted the entire cupboard frame - everything apart from the doors.

Prof. Marshall posted Jan 2017 On our bed, Liz has a mattress, then a foam underlay which looks like an eggbox, and then the bottom sheet. The last time she stripped the bed we slipped some #30 mesh under the underlay, above the mattress. I didn't think it would do anything, but it did - it reduces the exposure to lower frequencies of a body lying close to it. Using an antenna tuned to FM radio, the Cornet shows 6-10dB lower FM radio signals within a foot of the mattress. I expect it would be some use over the 100MHz-400MHz range, and Liz reminded me that the 4ft wide aluminum foil would have done just as well. So there is something to try – it is not much of a help – but sometimes we have to take everything we can get.

Is it necessary to ground the YShield paint?

that is an electrical safety precaution. What I did was run about 2-4 ft of Nickel/Copper/Cobalt Fabric Tape (LessEMF Cat. #A225) conductive tape from a power box along the wall before starting the painting. You can't see the tape after painting. All the electrical box is for is so its metal case can give you a solid ground connection. I clamped the tape between the plug assembly and the metal tape with the screw which normally holds the plug assembly into the metal box.

I saw no increase in performance here with a second coat we applied to a critical wall. For us, one coat has 'just worked' on all the surfaces we painted.

yShield only needs earthing as an electrical-safety precaution, it has little effect on its shielding. I run a 2ft length of conductive tape under the paint to the body of a junction box. Some people run it to plug-earths. This video will show you how an amateur does it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeRHtGSVyb4&t=1m13s

A professional would only use about 2-3ft of tape for each patch of surface, provided the walls are fully painted they will be conductive over the whole surface. So one strap would provide for multiple connected walls. Also, I positioned the tape so that one of the screws used to fasten the box together firmly attaches the tape to the metal box.

None of the YouTube videos show how to do it properly, the same problem we have with all the other stuff in the interwebs about fixing EMF :X :X

- Dr Marshall

Prof. Marshall posted Jan 2016 I am using the yShield paint HSF54, with half a container of AF3 binding agent per 5L pail of paint. We painted inside our walk-in closet, as well as several other closets, and I didn't notice any particular problems with drying.

Over the HSF54, Liz used an water-based undercoat, then an acrylic color coat. On the last wall she only allowed a couple of hours for the HSF54 to dry.

April 2017 “Liz uses a primer over the yShield, and one coat of light color is then enough.”

Try to use aluminum sheeting if you can. Overlap is important.

Well, we're going ahead with the room shielding by installing the atticfoil on the floor under hardwood Rico 2016

If you are trying to shield from a high power source (e.g., a very close cell-tower) then overlap becomes all the more important in my mind. And I do have towers with cell antennas less than 900 feet from my home.

If you take a look at the photos from my “quiet room” project, you may notice the foil on the floor is overlapped to the point of being doubled for 18 inches on both sides. Now that was probably not necessary, but it made installation faster to simply lay the middle (foil face up) strip down and then lay the other two strips (foil face down) on top of it.

You can see that I left the yShield exposed below the baseboard line so I could overlap the foil onto the yShield on the walls for continuity.

- Joyful

TM Our windows used Low-E glass, so they were easier to manage. But even with care we only achieved about 20dB shielding, maybe 30dB in the bedroom.

“Windows blocked” is achieved two ways in our house. The North-facing windows are an Infra-Red reflecting/absorbing type, for energy saving, which also does a very good job of stopping any Microwave penetration (better than 20dB).

We have two windows which don't get sun on them, and therefore the contractors put in cheap glass. The one in my computer room is currently covered with shim aluminum. The paint is extended along the edges of the window frame, where the window sits, and the shim is taped to the window frame with Gaffer tape.

Windows are difficult to work with.

I have tried curtains of various fabrics. They work, but a lot of signal leaks past them. The IR-reflecting glass really does a good job of reflecting RF. Almost as good a job as the ySHield paint (15-25dB actual, rated 40dB). I haven't tried the films, as they really don't seem to perform well, and the films are not suitable for cascading (if you already have UV film you cant add an IR to it)(and not really suitable for surreptitiously applying as the bubbles, etc, will probably be visible). Trevor Marshall, PhD

The Chinese use a lot of window shielding for clinics, etc, and they seem to use a fairly heavy high-metal-content 'fabric':

product-detail/Ni-co-Conductive-Anti-radiation-Fabric_753201930

and product-detail/1-35-Meter-in-Width-Ni_699670403

were unavailable at time of editing, for information on these and other items stocked

inquire at Alibaba.com buyer request

Besides window film, SS mesh is an idea: https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel/fine-stainless-wire-cloth/100-mesh-woven-stainless-63 https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel/100-mesh-woven-stainless-high-transparency-0012

Mike 2017

The film from Canada, Safe Living Technologies, SLTWF1 worked really well. With my new test setup I measured 35-40dBm, just about the same as a good fabric, and 10dB higher than the cheaper window film.

Professor T Marshall 2015

Window film isn't a very good shield, although it does retain its performance to very high frequencies. Typically you only get 25dB from a commercial window film. The very best I have seen is 45dB (that was a military film), with the high-performance varieties averaging 35dB. That is way below what aluminum attic-foil can give (in excess of 55dB, probably about 70dB). Close-mesh stainless steel approaches that level of performance at lower microwave frequencies, but I am not sure how important the higher frequencies are at this point in time.

The key is low-resistance joints and good overlap. Hard to envisage with that arrangement, plus the door will not seal all that well (it will be able to match the 25dB of the film, however).

How much shielding do you need? Well, several of us, the ones who have been trying to establish a threshold of “perfection,” can notice a big difference between -60dBm (where the sniffer goes quiet on HI sensitivity) and below. Our Faraday cage is in a -65dBm to -75dBm room (depends on frequency) and it makes a huge difference to symptoms and comfort. So when you are still sensitive, shielding of the order of 25dB is better achieved with #92 clothing, in my opinion.

A sleeping cage/tent should give 40-50dB of shielding to be fully effective in the average metropolitan environment, IMO

-35dBm (Sniffer on LO, about 3 ticks per second) starting point 55dBm shielding results in -90dBm electrosmog, or about the level the 27MHz CWS puts out, and still around 3 bars on a cellphone receiver. It really is better to get another 20dB on top of this, preferably by starting with a better environment (-60dBm).

..Trevor..

At this point I am fixated on getting sleeping enclosures which are as close to completely quiet as possible. When that is matched with a reasonable work environment and low-radiation computers, terminals, etc, during the day, it seems as though the #92 shielded clothing will provide adequate productivity and sanity until it is time to hit the Faraday Cage again for some real deep sleep. Healing seems to be primarily facilitated during real deep sleep in an ultra-quiet environment.

Prof Trevor Marshall 2017

TM Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2015 16:17 We had dual-glazed windows installed a year ago. Turns out that the Infra-red attenuation built into them also attenuates RF reasonably well. When I get the room fully shielded I will be able to evaluate how good the windows really are, but they seem to be better than 15dB. You can also buy film to put on the window panes which will reflect signals. Prof Trevor Marshall 2015

Posted: Mon May 1st, 2017 I have sewn the 100 mesh .0012“ wire 316 stainless steel together with a standard sewing machine with no difficulty. Edges need to be stabilized first using fabric glue so that they don't ravel; I usually apply the fabric glue before cutting pieces.

The mesh used in front of the computer monitor or TV, in my opinion, needs to be sandwiched between two plexiglass pieces to keep it from warping, to keep it flat. That is what I did for the computer monitor.

If you have various electronic equipment in your yShield painted rooms, they have to be enclosed in shielded boxes, their own Faraday cage, with a jug of water, preferably a gallon of water, to absorb the RF generated by the electronics located inside the box. So, it is best to minimize what you bring into the rooms because of the hassle to shield them, and the shielding won't be perfect because of wires, which will all need a hefty amount of ferrite beads to minimize RF noise as best as can be done.

Prof. Marshall February 2015 Doors remain unknown, but we will paint them, and the frame, and see what we get. I don't anticipate any problems (while they are closed). Gaps will have to be sealed with a grille, of course.

Resources for understanding the EMF effects of common household devices:

• World Health Organization International EMF Project
• National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences
• CPUC EMF Action

Magnetic Fields in the Environment: (Gauger 1985)

I just purchased some small LED lamps to illuminate our milling machine, and was surprised to find they didn't send the Sniffer ticking away angrily.

I pulled them apart to verify that in fact there are no electronics, just a capacitor to drop the voltage and a simple rectifier to feed the 20 LEDs.

So, if you are looking to throw some light on the subject, any subject, take a look at these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA

or a smaller one, with half the number of lamps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051RKFDE

You will need to find something metal to clip the magnet too, or alternatively tape them into place with some duct tape

Professor Marshall Jan 19th, 2017

The thing that we have missed most in my household is the ROKU box. Sure, Liz and I watch TV on our computers, but we miss the shared experience of watching things together on the big (32“) screen in our living room. ROKU puts out WiFi at both 2.4GHz and 5GHz, our Sony GoogleTV also insists on running its WiFi continuously, and of course our Chromecast was retired long ago.

this text with illustration (visible to logged in members only) is at the MP Study Site Internet TV box without WiFi or Bluetooth

It is 2” x 2“ by 2” and runs off 5Volts, 2 Amps. There are cheaper models than the PRO version which I am using, but they are all sold out at the moment :X

It is also possible to use an assortment of other cheaper single-board-computers (I am working on getting a 'banana pro' running as a backup). They all have the advantage that they are designed for NO WIFI and NO BLUETOOTH, they will run off wired-ethernet without any wireless features being enabled :)

But what software do you use? The ROKU software is so nice :X … Well, I chose the CuBox because it runs Android KitKat, just like a phone, and the Netflix and Hulu (and Amazon) apps all run just fine on the big screen!

It came with Android 4.4.2 on the SD card supplied by NewEgg, but that version wasn't rooted, and so I downloaded the more up-to-date version with 4.4.4 already rooted

This review gives a flavor of what to expect (the android part starts half-way down the page). I found the following apps were the basis of my system:

Xposed Xprivacy Adaptive Rotation Lock (stops some apps from trying to display sideways on your screen) Quick Boot (there is no power button on this computer) Netflix Hulu YouTube Amazon Instant Video UK-IPTV (indexes a worldwide assortment of Live TV broadcasting) Titanium Backup (I always have it on every one of my Android systems) Root Explorer (ditto) MX Player Pro with Dolby add-on – this plays every video file you throw at it

Oh - did I mention that the 4.4.4 distribution already has ad-blocking built into its HOSTS file? You don't have to worry about ads with this software distribution :)

There are two USB inputs. One goes to a two-way splitter into which is plugged my Keyboard (a full keyboard) and Optical Mouse. You control the system with the mouse (since most TV's don't have a touch screen :) ), it is easy enough…

I connected a 1TB hard disk to the other USB socket. It is self-powered by 5V (coming from a second regulator on the transformer, in my case, as the USB sockets can drive a keyboard and mouse, but don't have enough power for a hard-disk. MX Player Pro can play any video on the drive. I prefer to select the videos with Root Explorer, but you will probably just index them as 'media' and select them with the MX Player interface. Of course you can just plug a USB stick, or an SD card with USB adapter, into this second socket.

That's it! Internet TV with no waves being generated…

..Trevor..

ps: I myself used two of these tiny switching regulators, set for 5.0V, and a 15V 1A transformer plugpack, to power the whole caboodle (one for the hard drive, one for the computer).

pps: I formated the 1TB hard drive with exFAT in a Windoze computer. This was completely compatible with the Android software. FAT32 works as well, but then you have the 4GB video filesize limit.

Trevor Marshall

I see the lower cost computer without WiFi or Bluetooth is again available from NewEgg:

SolidRun CuBoxTV Quad Core 1ghz XMBC Media Center

Trevor Marshall, April 2015

Here is a video showing how the iPAD can be connected:

Internet on ipad using ethernet cable - in flightmode and wifi off

I connected my Android tablet (Nexus 7, first edition) using the BobJgear wired internet adapter. A video is here:

BobjGear Ethernet Adapter for Android with Galaxy Note Pro 12.2

and on the Nexus 7: android nexus7 + usb to ethernet (rj45)

(I got the Nexus 7 for $66 on YouTube, it runs my Skype, Gmail, Google Voice, etc). When I plug in the Nexus 7 (OS ver 4.1.2) the “No Internet Connection” text at the bottom of the pulldown status pane changes to “Ethernet” when I plug in the OTG+adapters+ethernet

The full list of android tablets which work is given here:

Which Devices Support the BobjGear® Android Ethernet Adapter?

and the information on how to do it is here:

BobjGear® USB to RJ45 Compact Fast Ethernet Adapters for Ethernet Enabled Android Tablets